Spain’s Civil War Memorial, Valley of the Fallen and why it is Controversial

Luke Keeler November 30, 2019

Valle de Los Caídos

Madrid is the capital city of Spain and is full of treasures to explore like the Royal Palace of Madrid, and other famous Spanish squares like Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, but other Spanish treasures are located just outside Madrid that make for a great day trip. One of those treasures is San Lorenzo de El Escorial, a monastery and royal site. The second site generally isn’t considered a Spanish treasure because it has so much controversy surrounding it. It is Valle de Los Caídos or in English, the Valley of the Fallen and is a monument and basilica dedicated to Spain’s Civil War.

Valle de los Caídos is Spain’s Civil War Memorial located just outside of Madrid. There are over 45,000 civil war soldiers buried there. The Valley of the Fallen is surrounded by multiple controversies, such as the unequal number of victims buried in the valley. Read more about some of the other controversies and why it isn’t considered one of the treasures of traveling in Spain. — Spain’s Civil War Memorial, Valley of the Fallen and why it is Controversial

What is Valley of the Fallen/Valle de los Caídos?

Valle de los Caídos is Spain’s Civil War Memorial located in the Guadarrama Mountain Range (Sierra de Guadarrama), just outside of Madrid. It is about 14 km north of El Escorial and 68 km north of Madrid. It is a memorial to those who died in the Spanish Civil War and it is said there are over 45,000 civil war soldiers that are buried there now. The Spanish dictator Francisco Franco, who commissioned the construction of this memorial was also buried underneath the altar of the basilica ever since his death in 1975, until October 24, 2019 when Franco’s body was exhumed and moved to Madrid. The memorial consists of a basilica, built into the mountain side, an abbey and a gigantic cross.

The gigantic cross on top of the mountain at the Valley of the Fallen

Why was Valley of the Fallen commissioned?

Francisco Franco, the Spanish dictator, commissioned it in 1940 to supposedly honor the fallen of the Spanish Civil War. The dictator intended the site to be a memorial to commemorate both sides of the civil war, at least according to him, but many believe it to be Franco’s shrine to victory and a place of mourning for his followers. This caused controversy over the years and led to the removal of his body. Franco said the monument was to be a symbol of peace and reconciliation, but during its construction over an 18 year period right after the civil war, multiple war prisoners were used as labor in its construction, leading many to point out that it was eerily similar to a concentration camp.

Beautiful views of the surrounding mountains from the courtyard in front of the basilica

Further Controversies of the Valley of the Fallen

There are multiple controversies of the Valley of the Fallen, such as the unequal number of victims buried in the valley. When the construction of the monument was completed in 1959, it is estimated that of the more than 11,000 people who were buried there initially, only a very small percentage were Republicans while the vast majority were Nationalists. Ever since 1959 the number of people buried at this memorial has increased to at least 34,000 for a total of over 45,000 soldiers. Many family members of Republicans who were buried here are upset that their loved ones shared the burial site with the tomb of Francisco Franco, Spain’s dictator, along with José Antonio Primo de Rivera, who was the founder of the Spanish Fascist Party. These controversies have led to the removal of Franco’s body. Another factor that added to this controversy was that the basilica is an official place of worship for the Catholic Church.

Ceiling of the Basilica of the Valley of the Fallen

The Cross of the Valley of the Fallen is the Largest in the World

Since the majority of the Valley of the Fallen memorial is built into the mountain side, the majority of people traveling across Spain on interstate number 6, wouldn’t even know it’s there except for the gigantic cross that has been placed on top of the mountain. It’s actually the largest memorial cross in the world and stands at 152 meters or 500 feet, looming over the mountains and memorial. Since the monument is located in the mountains, there are wonderful views of the surrounding mountains from the courtyard in front of the basilica.

Should you visit the Valley of the Fallen?

There are multiple reasons why someone would want to visit this memorial along with multiple reasons why others would not. History enthusiasts would not want to miss the Valley of the Fallen because it commemorates the Spanish Civil War. Architecture enthusiasts wouldn’t want to miss the Valley of the Fallen because it is the home to a very large Roman Catholic Basilica built inside of a mountain.

Tomb of Francisco Franco when he was buried at the Valley of the Fallen

Getting to and from the Valley of the Fallen

The Valley of the Fallen is an easy day trip from Madrid and the majority of travelers book a sightseeing tour, as it is less of a hassle than finding your way on public transportation. On a tour, the drive is about an hour and you will probably also make a stop at the Monastery and Royal Site of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. If you decide to venture out on your own, you will also visit San Lorenzo de El Escorial, as you will have to take a bus from Madrid to San Lorenzo and once you arrive to this beautiful town, you will need to find the bus that runs directly to the monument. It only runs once a day up to the monument and then back down to San Lorenzo, so you definitely don’t want to miss it. While on the bus you will stop at the entrance and have to pay for your general admission ticket which costs around nine euros. You will pay a lot less going independently, but some people find tours more comfortable and easy, especially if you don’t speak the Spanish language.

Don’t miss Visiting San Lorenzo de El Escorial

San Lorenzo de El Escorial is located northwest of Madrid and is a short drive from the Capital, about 60 kilometers or 37 miles away, at the base of the Guadarrama Mountain Range (Sierra de Guadarrama). San Lorenzo is a beautiful and picturesque town that is located in the autonomous community of Madrid. The centerpiece of the town primarily consists of a huge monastery named El Escorial. It’s a large religious and palace complex that was the country home for Spanish royalty for hundreds of years. In 1984, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of Spain’s most visited landmarks.

The centerpiece of San Lorenzo de El Escorial is a huge monastery named El Escorial. It’s a large religious and palace complex that was the country home for Spanish royalty for hundreds of years. In 1984, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of Spain’s most visited landmarks. Read about the history of this Spanish treasures and why it’s considered on the treasures of traveling in the capital region of Spain. — Why San Lorenzo de El Escorial is well Worth a Visit

Visit other Interesting Tourist Attractions in Madrid

There are many treasures of traveling throughout the autonomous community of Madrid and the capital city of Spain to discover, like Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor and the Royal Palace of Madrid. Spain has many treasures of traveling to offer any tourist and both San Lorenzo de El Escorial and the Valley of the Fallen are interesting places to explore. There are also many wonderful southern Spanish cities to discover like Granada and Seville.